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There are many different types of GPS receivers on the market, ranging from very basic to navigational powerhouses. Units can range from a little more than $100 to over $1000!

I would recommend that you go for a dedicated receiver. A dedicated receiver is designed for navigation only and cannot be used for making calls, as a PDA, or for any other non-navigation related activity. The different types are:

Basic: Basic GPS receivers are small, lightweight and relatively easy to use. They are also quite inexpensive, which makes them appealing to those just starting out with geocaching. The main problem with receivers classed as basic is that they generally do not contain base maps. You will therefore need to be quite proficient as a map reader as you will have to plot your coordinates on a paper map. Basic units also generally do not include antenna extension jacks or the ability to sync with your computer. I would only recommend that you purchase this kind of unit if you are absolutely certain that it is all that you will be able to afford. It is not that it is impossible to use for finding caches, it is just that there are some easier ways to go about it. It is sometimes the case that people are disillusioned or discouraged by their struggles on the hunt and write off the sport altogether. This situation can often be avoided by using slightly better equipment. However, if you relish the prospect of raising the difficulty level a bit, then this kind of unit will certainly do the trick!

Intermediate: The main difference between basic and intermediate receivers is the fact that intermediate receivers contain base maps. Some of them also include syncing options, the ability to expand memory capacity and a jack for an external antenna. The fact that the base map is included will generally translate into a much more positive geocaching experience as it will mean less fiddling around with paper maps. (It is not the case that paper maps are ever totally unnecessary, even with top of the line receivers. Having a base map in place just means that you will have to consult it less often). I would recommend if you can afford it, that you begin with an intermediate receiver as your first unit. This should lead to a much more positive first geocaching experience.

Full featured: The sky is the limit when it comes to full featured receivers! Most of them will contain all of the features listed above and then some! A good full featured receiver will contain worldwide base maps as well as topographical maps. There will also be the option of adding more detailed maps through a SD card slot or a USB connection. Some of the other benefits include:

• Connectivity – Many receivers can connect to wireless networks or to the mobile phone data network. Some also contain Bluetooth connections for data exchange with other units. This means that this kind of unit is the perfect paperless geocaching solution as everything that you need can be downloaded onto it, even when you’re on the move.
• Extra navigational tools – High-end receivers will almost always contain the following: Non-satellite-based compasses, barometric altimeters and WAAS ability.
• Extras – It is amazing to see what some manufacturers can fit into a relatively small GPS receiver! Here are just some of the extras that can be found in some units:
  • Voice recorder: What better way to record your impressions of the hunt than by recording it directly onto your receiver.
  • Camera: Some receivers have high-end digital cameras built into them, meaning that you have one less piece of equipment to worry about.
  • Two-way radio ability: There are dedicated two-way radio frequencies for geocaching. Don’t be surprised therefore if you ever see a geocacher speaking to his receiver! It could just be that he has a unit that can double as a radio if need be.

 Having access to a high-end unit is perhaps as close to GPS heaven as it is possible to get. The main disadvantages are price (some of them can do pretty serious damage to your bank balance) and perceived complexity. Many people take one look at all the buttons and functions and decide to go for something simpler. However, if you can afford it and are not afraid to play around with technology I would definitely recommend this option.

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The range of GPS receivers out there is truly mind-boggling. You could very easily spend days and days looking at different units and still not be any closer to a final decision on the one that would be best suited to your circumstances. A good way out of this conundrum is to begin by listing the characteristics and functions that you are looking for and then making your decision based on this.

I regard the following features as basic and non-negotiable. You should therefore strive to make your purchasing decision based on these attributes:

Accurate and reliable readings: Accuracy is not generally considered to be a major point of difference between different GPS receivers since they all get their readings from the same set of satellites. Of greater concern is the issue of reliability. You need a unit that will not suddenly freeze, die or ‘go slow’ on you! Read some product reviews before making a final decision as these will make it clear if there are any issues in this regard.

Good battery life: Nothing is as frustrating as having to abandon your search because you ran out of battery power. Good battery life is more than a convenience issue. If you are in particularly rugged terrain you will need your GPS to get you back to safety. It is therefore in your best interest to choose a unit that uses power sparingly. (It is also recommended that you always carry spare batteries with you)

Base map: A base map is simply a map stored in the GPS’s memory. This is not (in most cases) a high-definition and high detail map, but it does allow the unit to link its readings with the physical environment. This makes the task of finding a specific location so much easier. Units without base maps simply display the following information (without plotting them on a map):

• Speed
• Bearing (Direction of travel, usually presented as a degree value out of 360)
• Distance travelled
• Distance to your destination

 The fact that a base map places all of this information (and more) in their proper context makes it an invaluable aid. I recognise, however, that not everybody will agree with my assessment of a base map as a non-negotiable feature. Some people believe that not having access to a base map make the sport more challenging as its absence will add another layer of complexity to the hunt.

Computer interface ability: Most new GPS units can be linked up with a personal computer through a USB cable. Some can also link up through a wireless network or Bluetooth. I regard this function as very important if you plan to do serious geocaching as it will allow you to download cache coordinates directly onto your device at the click of a button. Going paperless in this way is not only very convenient; it also reduces the possibility of serious errors arising from inaccurate manual entries. (A single digit entered incorrectly due to ‘fat finger syndrome’ can leave you hundreds of metres off the mark!)

Ruggedness: Geocaching is an intense outdoor activity that takes place in all kinds of weather. Your equipment should therefore be able to withstand extreme conditions. It is also quite likely that a GPS unit will be dropped several times during its ‘career’. Do your best, therefore, to choose a unit that does not look as if it has to be constantly wrapped in cotton wool!

Waypoint saving: The ‘waypoint saving’ function allows you to store a specific location within the unit’s memory. Regular storage of waypoint can enhance your safety in challenging terrain as it will enable you to retrace your steps back to your original location. Most modern units allow you to store waypoints. The only real difference between receivers is how many of these points can be stored. A unit with a larger storage capacity is somewhat easier to manage as you will not have to constantly delete old waypoints to make room for new ones. Your unit should also ideally include a ‘Track Log’ feature that will allow you to use previous waypoints as ‘breadcrumbs’ on the way to safety.

Water resistance: If you go geocaching for long enough it is almost certain that your equipment will get wet at some stage. Your unit should be able to deal with wet conditions without ‘giving up the ghost’ immediately. Just how wet depends on what you intend to use the unit for. If you are simply worried about an occasional bit of moisture water resistance should be sufficient. If, however, you plan to use your unit in marine environments you should perhaps opt for one that is waterproof (i.e. it can be submerged in water for a certain amount of time without dying)

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Cache ratings will give you a very good idea about the kind of cache you are looking at. In addition to the ratings you may want to consider the following factors as you glance at cache search results:

Accessibility: How easy will it be to get to the cache? This question is especially important if you plan on taking small children, are wheelchair-bound, or want to go by bike. The terrain ratings will give you a good idea about the likelihood of accessibility issues. Warnings will sometimes also be included in the description of the cache.

Distance: How far is the cache from my present location? Remember that there can sometimes be a huge difference between as-the-crow-flies distance and the distance that you will have to cover by car or on foot. One way to determine the latter is to type in your start and end points (or positions as close to it as possible) into the ‘Get Directions’ field in Google Maps.

Cost: How much will it cost me to find this cache? Geocaching can be very inexpensive or even totally free if you stick to hunting caches in your local area or neighbourhood. There might, however, be some costs involved when you venture further afield. Some of the potential expenditures that you should include in your calculations include:

· Admission fees (e.g. if the cache is hidden in a location where an entry fee or permit is required)
· Fuel costs
· Accommodation costs (if finding the cache will require an overnight stay)

Weather: Is this a good time of year to try to find this particular cache? Some caches may be hidden in areas that can become extremely dry and hot during summer, while others may be located in areas that are covered in snow in winter. It is therefore a good idea to give some thought to the general weather conditions before making your selection. This can be followed up by checking out the relevant weather forecast once you have selected a cache.

Time: How long will it take me to find this cache? Many caches can be found in an hour or so, especially when they are hidden in your local area. In some other cases (e.g. caches that score higher on the terrain and difficulty ratings) something akin to the launching of an expedition may be required! Listings will include an approximate time. It is highly recommended that you cross check this with the feedback left by previous finders. Doing so will help you to form an accurate picture of the amount of time that may be required.

Child friendliness: Can the kids come? There is obviously no easy or uniform answer to this question as children differ so much in terms of their abilities and interests. You should spend some time weighing all the different factors (terrain, difficulty, weather, time commitment etc) so that you can come to an informed decision on whether a particular cache would be suitable for the younger members of your family. If you do plan on regularly taking your kids along it would perhaps be best to start them off with some very easy caches and monitoring their responses. (Most kids absolutely love geocaching, especially the treasure hunting aspect of it!)

Dog friendliness: Can I bring my ‘best friend’ along? Many people like to take their dogs along when they go geocaching (this is no doubt greatly appreciated by the dogs!). There are some locations, however, where bringing a dog is not encouraged, or even actively prohibited (e.g. some nature reserves).

Type of cache: What would I like to find? There are many different types of caches. It could be that you are particularly attracted to a certain type (e.g. you are intrigued by the challenge of finding very small micro-caches). My recommendation is that you start out by searching for a few traditional caches before perhaps moving off in more specialised directions.

Weighing up all of these factors and then deciding on a cache that you would like to pursue is a very special moment as it marks the beginning of the transition from theory to practice!

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Doing your first Geocaching.com search is like entering a world that you did not even know existed. Simply typing in your location will, in most circumstances, result in a list of many caches in your immediate area being returned. When this happens, some people will have an almost overwhelming desire to rush out and attempt to find the first cache on the list. My suggestion would be that you curb your enthusiasm for awhile and take a closer look at the list. There are many different types of caches at different levels of difficulty. The first cache on the list may therefore not be ideally suited if you’re only just starting out with geocaching. You should therefore spend some time to interpret the list before deciding on your target.

There are many different ways of searching for a cache. These include:

Postal code: This is perhaps the most popular way of searching for geocaches. Simply type in your postal code and a list of caches organised in terms of their distance from the centre of the postal code area will pop up. Postal code searches are available for most countries where codes are linked to relatively small geographical areas.

State/country/province: This is a good way of searching if you are unfamiliar with a country, state or province. Using this search function will normally bring up a list of regions or cities within these entities, thus allowing you to narrow down your search.

Keyword: It is sometimes the case that you remember something of the name of a cache, but not its location or any other details. If you are faced with this situation the keyword search function should lead you to the right cache in a relatively short time.

Username: If you particularly enjoyed searching for a cache that was placed by a specific person, you can easily bring up his/her other creations by doing a username based search.

Map: Geocaching.com is fully integrated with Google Maps. This means that you can navigate to a specific area on the map and see a visual presentation of where caches were placed in the vicinity. Making use of this function can take some of the guesswork out of the geocaching process as it will give you a good idea of the type of area, access roads and distance from amenities. You can even get a feel for the topography of the area by switching from the plain map view to satellite view.

Waypoint name: Each geocache that is listed on Geocaching.com is assigned a unique code. This code can then be entered as a waypoint on your GPS device. If you know the waypoint code of a cache, but nothing else, you can do a search by typing it in and the site will return all the relevant information.

Address: It is possible to do address-based searches in many countries. Simply enter the address and the site will work out approximate coordinates and return the results accordingly.

Geocache type: There are many different types of caches. This function allows you to only look for a particular type of cache (e.g. micro-caches).

Coordinates: If you have the coordinates of a specific location you can enter it and the search will return a list of nearby caches.

It should be clear from the above that there are many different ways of searching for geocaches. All of this variety does not mean, however, that this is a complicated activity. You will find that the process becomes easier and more natural after even just one or two attempts.

What is a treasure hunt without a treasure? Most geocachers will say that they take part simply to experience the thrill of the chase, but there is no denying that opening a well stocked cache is an experience not to be sniffed at. The things that you will see when you do are commonly called swag (which is shorthand for ‘Stuff we all get’). As a finder you are welcome to take anything you see (except for the logbook of course). The only condition is that you replace it with something of equal or greater value. It is also considered polite to make a note in the logbook describing what you took and what you left.

There are many different things that can be found in caches and it is very difficult to provide a comprehensive list. The kinds of treasures found in caches are truly as diverse as the human imagination. Some more common items include:

• Batteries (good for powering up the GPS on the return trip!)
• Camping gear
• Maps
• Books
• CDs or DVDs
• Stickers
• Toys

Some geocachers take great pride in crafting, designing or choosing a signature item. This is something that reflects their identity and personality. Sometimes such items are nothing more than a business card while there are others that become collector’s items. These items can become so highly sought after that people will launch special expeditions to find as many of an individual’s caches as possible.

Geocachers often let their imaginations run wild when they decide on what to put in their caches. There are, however, some limits and most people are careful not to stray beyond them. It is generally agreed that the following items do not belong in a geocache:

• Alcohol
• Ammunition
• Weapons
• Drugs
• Pornography
• Food

Most people will immediately understand the rationale behind the prohibition of all of these items, except perhaps for the last. The reason that food is prohibited is the fact that it can spoil, ruining the contents of the cache in the process. Food can also present a tempting target to wild animals that may destroy part of the cache in their attempts to get at it.

It is important that you log your visit after finding a cache and looking through all the exciting swag! Almost all geocaches will contain a logbook (in micro–caches the ‘logbook’ will often be more like a ‘log roll’ made of rolled up sheets of paper!). The purpose of the logbook is to provide a space where you can record the details of your visit to the cache. You can write as little or as much as you want but the following basic details are usually included:

• Date of visit
• Names of the finders
• Items left and/or taken

Most cache owners will appreciate it if you go beyond these bare bones details and write a little bit more about your search. Giving a description of things like the weather, the search process and things you saw along the way will all contribute to the ‘history’ of the cache. Whenever a logbook is filling up you can notify the owner of the cache of this fact when you report your visit on the Internet. The owner will replace it with a new one and keep the old one as an interesting record of the ‘life’ of the cache.

One of the first things that a new geocacher has to learn is that ‘all caches were not created equal’! There are in fact many different types of caches that will challenge those who set out to find them on a variety of levels. The most common types of caches are the following:

Traditional/Basic Cache: The traditional Geocache is simply a container (usually made of plastic but sometimes also from metal e.g. an ammunition box). The cache will usually contain a logbook, a pen and some small items that can be exchanged. These items are sometimes called SWAG (‘Stuff we all get’).

Micro-cache: Micro-caches are, as the name indicates, very small. Some of them are so small that they contain nothing but a tiny logbook.

Multi-cache: A multi-cache is part of an extended puzzle where one cache leads to another. In most cases the first cache contains some kind of hint or directions to help geocachers to find the second one and so on.

 Mystery cache: Mystery caches take the difficulty of finding a cache to the next level in the sense that just about everything about the cache (including the actual coordinates) will have to be ‘solved’. Geocachers will have to do some sleuthing before being able to set out to actually go to find the cache.

Earth-cache: An earth-cache is a special kind of cache as it is directly related to some aspect of the Earth’s geology. Finders have a wonderful opportunity to learn more about our planet.

Letterbox cache: Letterboxing has been a popular activity in some English national parks (especially on Exmoor and Dartmoor) for over a century. Players leave clues which, when decrypted, lead letterboxers to a container that holds postcards and/or rubberstamps. This can later be used to prove that a specific box had been found. A letterbox-geocaching hybrid cache combines the best of both worlds. Players are still issued with cryptic instructions (as is the practice in letterboxing) but also with GPS coordinates.

The fact that there are so many different types of caches means that geocaching is a sport that can challenge enthusiasts on many different levels. If you take up geocaching you will soon discover that you are never too old to learn! A useful lesson both in treasure hunting and in life!

Want to get into geocaching? Learn from a recognised expert: http://www.getintogeocaching.com

Many new Geocachers are concerned about finding caches that will suit them in terms of skill levels and available time. Fortunately the process of selecting an appropriate cache is made easier by a widely accepted rating system. This system differentiates between the difficulty of finding the cache itself and the difficulty of traversing the terrain while making your way to the cache. Both of these factors (difficulty and terrain) will obviously have to be taken into account while planning a geocaching hunt.

Difficulty
* Easy: The cache is almost in full view and very little searching is required in order to locate it.
** Average: It should take a geocacher of moderate ability and experience about 30 minutes to find the cache.
*** Challenging: Even experienced geocachers will have to do some work to find this one and it could take a few hours to locate.
**** Difficult: Finding a cache classed as difficult may take several excursions and will also require in-depth preparation. Special skills and/or knowledge may be needed.
***** Extreme: Finding an ‘extreme’ cache will almost always require specialised skills and equipment. A significant amount of planning will be needed.

Terrain
* Handicap Accessible: One star terrain is usually suitable for wheelchairs and finding the cache will require a hike of less than 1 km.
**Suitable for small children: The cache can be found by sticking to clearly marked trails without steep inclines or obstructions (e.g. thick vegetation). The required hike will generally be less than 3 kilometres.
*** Not suitable for small children: Finding a cache on three star terrain will normally require some off-road walking. It can also involve one or all of the following: walking through thick vegetation, negotiating uneven terrain and walking for more than 3 kilometres.
**** Experienced outdoor enthusiasts only: It is likely that the majority of the hike will be off-road. It can also involve one or all of the following: Moving through very thick vegetation, negotiating very steep inclines (use of hands may be required) and hikes of more than 10 kilometres. It may in some cases be necessary to plan an overnight stay.
***** Requires specialised equipment, knowledge, or experience: Getting to this type of cache will be very difficult. Depending on the terrain some of the following may be required: a boat, a four-wheel-drive vehicle, rock climbing equipment, ice exploration equipment or diving gear.

Some geocachers use the star rating system as a shorthand description of a cache. For example: ’3/2′ refers to a ‘Challenging’ cache that is hidden in terrain that is suitable for children.

Want to get into Geocaching? Please visit: http://www.getintogeocaching.com
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